The day was warm when we drove to Montefalco, the “balcony over Umbria,” where in the 13th century Emperor Frederick II destroyed a Roman town and built this new-now-old one in its place.  Streets radiate down from a central plaza on the crest of the hill through medieval gateways to wide views of the valley beyond.  Crooked lanes curve around stone buildings to tiny unexpected piazzas.  Maurice selected a flowered doorway in a small plaza to paint; his criteria for the day was that he sit in the shade while he worked.  I headed off to explore the town.  I knew there were medieval paintings and I’d heard rumors of mummies. Keep reading