9th-century Iglesia de Santa Maria Real, O Cebreiro, with sello

(La Portela de Valcarce to O Cebreiro: 14.8 km, 5 3/4 hours with 1 hr & 40 min breaks; 21,170 steps, plus 1830 later)

Philippians 4:4-9
v. 4-7 Rejoice in the Lord always. I will say it again: Rejoice! Let your gentleness be evident to all. The Lord is near. Do not be anxious about anything, but in every situation, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus.

“Rejoice in the Lord always!” The joy to be found in our relationship with the Lord is always greater than whatever despairing situation in which we find ourselves. I need to look to that joy instead of the steepness of the rocky path under my feet. I’ll get up it. We pray every day in our pilgrim prayer that Jesus will be for us “a companion on our journey, the guide on our intersections, the strengthening during fatigue….” Will he not answer with his presence, his direction, his strength and his joy? So rejoice! “Let your gentleness be evident to all,” even the careless pilgrims blowing smoke in my direction at the tables outside the bar. “Do not be anxious about anything,” not lung damage from the smoke, not two beds for the night, not even whether the laundry will dry. I just need to discuss it with the Lord, thankfully remembering all he’s already done for us. As we wait for answers, even answers we might not expect, he brings us peace. Thank you, Jesus, for your joy even in the difficulties and irritations of life.

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We slept fine, but the bar was not open at seven as the barkeep had told Maurice it would be. Since the day’s path was to be so steep, we had decided to send our packs ahead and weren’t sure where to put them. We were also supposed to call to confirm our hotel in O Cebreiro and we were counting on the barkeep to help us with that. We took our time getting ready and finally left at 8:15, breakfastless once again, with a light in the bar but the door still locked. Maurice called the transport company himself; their English was minimal, his Spanish is nil. They got the message our packs were waiting; they’d find them. As for the hotel–well, Maurice called them too and they didn’t answer but Maurice may have accidentally dialed a number in Iran. Or Singapore. Or both. At least that’s what his phone says. Keep reading

Villafranca del Bierzo

(Cacabelos to La Portela de Valcarce: 22 km, 6 hours 40 minutes with 1 1/2 hours breaks; 31,00 steps)

Philippians 3:12-4:1
v. 12 Not that I have already obtained all this, or have already arrived at my goal, but I press on to take hold of that for which Christ Jesus took hold of me.

I am done–ready to be finished with this pilgrimage. We’ve been walking for over a month now and we have not arrived at our goal. We are so tired. As we came through the hills the sky clouded over and the temperature dropped. The toughest climb of the walk looms in the morning, and my weather app tells me the chance of rain tomorrow is 100%. But we can’t stop now. We have to keep walking, to press on in this journey in which Jesus took hold of us and said, “Let’s go!” Though our gaze may be mostly at the rocks in the path that threaten to trip us, Jesus sees beyond the horizon to the blessings at the end of this walk and the eternal goal of all our lives. Lord Jesus, help us to hold on to you and to keep walking.

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