(Castaneda to Salceda: 17.5 km, 6 1/2 hours, with 1 hr & 30 min breaks; 24,725 steps, plus 530 later)

1Peter 1:1-12
v. 1-2 Peter, an apostle of Jesus Christ. To God’s elect, exiles scattered throughout the provinces of Pontus, Galatia, Cappadocia, Asia and Bithynia, who have been chosen according to the foreknowledge of God the Father, through the sanctifying work of the Spirit, to be obedient to Jesus Christ and sprinkled with his blood: Grace and peace be yours in abundance.

And exiles scattered throughout Navarra and Castilla & Leon and Galicia, elected by God to walk the ancient Way of St. James–there are so many of us. Sometimes we see a whole line of pilgrims spread out on the road ahead and behind, one by one, walking, all walking, as following some captivating call, drawn to an irresistible goal. We can’t see into their hearts’ motivations, but some of them walk to “be obedient to Jesus Christ,” believing God has called them to this journey and is honored as they walk (v. 7). Two millenia after Jesus’ life and death on earth, “though [they] do not see him now, [they] believe in him and are filled with an inexpressible and glorious joy, for [they] are receiving the end result of [their] faith, the salvation of [their] souls” (v. 8). Salvation is not in the journey to Santiago but is a gift of the One who calls us all to walk with him through “all kinds of trials” (v. 6) all the way to our heavenly home. Thank you, Jesus, that you give “grace and peace…in abundance” to all of us exiles who seek to be obedient to you.

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In the albergue’s bar we enjoyed our reasonably-priced toast for breakfast, and the waitress included pieces of homemade cake when she brought out our hot drinks. We left at 8:50, heading down a country road before turning onto forest trails lined with ferns and colorful mushrooms. “Delightful tracks” said the guidebook, and they were, through woods and hamlets, always full of a progression of pilgrims in increasing numbers. For the first time in our trek I had been looking eagerly toward each trail marker to see how many kilometers we had left. I kept telling Maurice I was ready for this to be over, but he said, no, we’re ready to reach our goal.

After a long stretch without facilities we came to a trailside cafe-bar. While Maurice stood in line to get a burger, I sat outside to eat lunch from the provisions we had been carrying. A group of young teenage boys traipsed by, a large group, perhaps a school trip. They talked and carried on as they followed their leader. About halfway through the throng two boys wordlessly peeled off from the multitude and walked purposefully into the bar. Soon the end of the group came into view. The chaperone at the rear, without changing stride or expression, stepped off the trail, entered the bar and smilingly reappeared within seconds with the two boys in his tender grasp. I guess the boys were ready to reach their goal too.

After lunch the path brightened with real sunshine. Maurice and I walked the rest of the day with Dan and Gemma from Los Angeles who lead marriage preparation classes for the diocese. The kilometers passed quickly. About 2:15 we arrived at the Albergue Turistico Salceda, a beautifully renovated little farm complex. I had reserved us beds but Maurice switched them for a nice double room, with one wall of old Galician stone. After we got settled I took a nap and did some writing. Maurice had a beer and did some drawing and visiting. We had dinner with Dan and Gemma and the rest of their California contingent, Kevin and Laura. They are all Christians and invited us to pray at dinner even before we suggested it.

An offer of rest along the way