A Quiet Day in Pontevedra (Day 12)

Caminho Portugues

Monday May 27, 2019

Pontevedra, Spain—Day 12; 8828 steps

Pontevedra, with octopus tree and bell tower

Proverbs 12

v. 14  From the fruit of their lips people are filled with good things, and the work of their hands brings them reward.  Maurice worked for 48 years, from the time he graduated from high school until he retired in 2014.  He worked steadily and hard in his paid employment, at home and in the community, providing for his family, encouraging others, keeping promises, honoring the Lord.  He still works in retirement.  “Look at your reward,” I said to him tonight.  “A fine family at home, and Galician cooking and vino tinto on a spring evening in Spain, plus you’re walking the Portuguese Camino!”  He looked skeptical at that last part, but he’s still glad he’s hanging out with me.  Thank you, Lord, for Maurice’s decades of hard work and honest words.  Thank you that I can share his reward with him.

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All the pilgrims were out between six and 9:30 except for us.  I lingered over a bowl of some sort of choco-crunchy cereal from our hostess’ breakfast supplies, plus there was Cola Cao and a bowl of oranges.  Little pleasures, but so delightful.  Maurice went out to paint and scour the streets one more time for the lost hearing aid.  While our hostess’ husband Jorge swept, changed sheets and straightened up for the next batch of pilgrims (and refilled the cereal), I sat in our room’s sunlit quiet to write, wait for my hair to dry and for the laundry to finish in the real washing machine.

Note second story kitchen window and door in the back from which you lean to hang out the laundry
Hanging the laundry out the kitchen door where you hope neither the laundry nor you will fall

There was no sign of the hearing aid, and Maurice said the street sweepers had gone by, so that was that.  We went out together to the nearby Santa Maria church where a smiling old woman stamped our credencials with sellos and took my euro for a climb up the tower stairs, past two little museum rooms, to a small terrace with the bells at the top. 

Whenever we passed the church we noticed local townspeople pausing to pray or cross themselves as they looked through the grill surrounding this moving, more-than-life-sized crucifix.

Then we walked to the Church of the Apparitions, where Sister Lucia of the Fatima children lived for over fifty years as a nun and had more visions (the other two children died young).  A sister lent us a marked and underlined book in English with highlights of the visions and she and two priests laughingly directed us up the convent stairs to the plain plastic chapel.  (We didn’t get the joke.  Was it us?) 

After doner kebabs for lunch we walked around town in the pleasant day, looking unsuccessfully for a pastry shop.  Finally a candy shop provided medrines, thickly sugared doughnut hole sort of things.

It was a quiet afternoon until other pilgrims arrived.  We chatted with a friendly woman from Gran Canaria.  The laundry I had hung outside the window in the airwell dried.  We picked another outdoor cafe for dinner but the dropping temperature and wind tunnel effect in that street quickly chilled Maurice’s pork and my fine slab of salmon adorned with a perfect roasted red pepper.  With a little help from Google Translate, I learned some new words and asked in my best Spanish if we could sit inside for our dessert, and it was so granted.

Pontevedra
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Stones, More Stones & the Perils of Maurice (Day 11)
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Chipirones (Day 13)
  • Hanging the laundry out the kitchen window brings back memories of the apartment where I lived in Madrid. I could wash a pair of jeans in the morning and they would be dry by lunchtime. We would ask the neighbor below to retrieve any items that would inadvertently escape our clutches. You, Maurice, and Will (about 3 months old at the time, I think!) arrived in a VW van and had dinner with us at that flat. So many years of friendship. How come only you still look like you did at 16?!

    • Maurice and I were just looking at laundry hanging out a 6th or 7th-floor window today and saying what a long way someone would have to go rescue the fallen! I remember the van and I remember the dinner—you made a tortilla—but the rest of the visit is blurry. And blurry is how you would have to look at me to think I still look 16–but thank you!!

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