PilgrimDance

Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela: 10.2 km, about 3 hours

Revelation 7:9-17
v. 9-10 After this I looked, and there before me was a great multitude that no one could count, from every nation, tribe, people and language, standing before the throne and before the Lamb. They were wearing white robes and were holding palm branches in their hands. And they cried out in a loud voice: “Salvation belongs to our God, who sits on the throne, and to the Lamb.”

Right now I’m looking around the cathedral, and here before us is a great multitude filling every seat, leaning against pillars and crowding the aisles, people from many nations and languages, standing before the golden statue of the apostle Santiago above the great altar. They are wearing tech clothing and hiking boots and holding smart phones in their hands and crying out to one another, “We made it!” And if they know the one God who sits on the throne above it all, they say, “By God’s grace! The only way we made it is by God’s grace!” And they join the angels, unseen but ever present, proclaiming around the throne: “Amen! Praise and glory and wisdom and thanks and honor and power and strength be to our God for ever and ever. Amen!” (v. 11).

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(Salceda to Lavacolla: 18 km, 6 hours, with 1 hr & 10 min breaks; 26,795 steps, plus 1700 later)

1Peter 2:4-12
v. 6-7a For in Scripture it says: “See, I lay a stone in Zion, a chosen and precious cornerstone, and the one who trusts in him will never be put to shame.” Now to you who believe, this stone is precious….

Tomorrow is the day we’ve been walking toward for six weeks. We will walk down from the Monte de Gozo, the Mount of Joy, into Santiago, through the streets of the old city, then down and around into the plaza where the cathedral stands, its stone towers soaring into the sky. Up the stairs, through the Portico of Gloria carved over 800 years ago, there is a pilgrim mass twice a day. In a crypt below the main altar is a silver casket containing the relics of Saint James, Santiago. But these ancient stones and beautiful shrines are not where our hope lies. Our salvation is found in Jesus, the “chosen and precious cornerstone,” the living Stone set by the Father as the foundation and head of the church, the One through whom all things were created and in whom all things hold together (Colossians 1:15-20). “The one who trusts in him will never be put to shame,” writes Peter. Dear Jesus, thank you for the beauty of the arts and for the remembrances of the saints that point to you.

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(Castaneda to Salceda: 17.5 km, 6 1/2 hours, with 1 hr & 30 min breaks; 24,725 steps, plus 530 later)

1Peter 1:1-12
v. 1-2 Peter, an apostle of Jesus Christ. To God’s elect, exiles scattered throughout the provinces of Pontus, Galatia, Cappadocia, Asia and Bithynia, who have been chosen according to the foreknowledge of God the Father, through the sanctifying work of the Spirit, to be obedient to Jesus Christ and sprinkled with his blood: Grace and peace be yours in abundance.

And exiles scattered throughout Navarra and Castilla & Leon and Galicia, elected by God to walk the ancient Way of St. James–there are so many of us. Sometimes we see a whole line of pilgrims spread out on the road ahead and behind, one by one, walking, all walking, as following some captivating call, drawn to an irresistible goal. We can’t see into their hearts’ motivations, but some of them walk to “be obedient to Jesus Christ,” believing God has called them to this journey and is honored as they walk (v. 7). Two millenia after Jesus’ life and death on earth, “though [they] do not see him now, [they] believe in him and are filled with an inexpressible and glorious joy, for [they] are receiving the end result of [their] faith, the salvation of [their] souls” (v. 8). Salvation is not in the journey to Santiago but is a gift of the One who calls us all to walk with him through “all kinds of trials” (v. 6) all the way to our heavenly home. Thank you, Jesus, that you give “grace and peace…in abundance” to all of us exiles who seek to be obedient to you.

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Onward and upward!

(Palas de Rei to Castaneda: 22.5 km, 7 1/2 hours, with 1 hr & 30 min breaks; 32,333 steps, plus 200 later)

Hebrews 13:11-16
v. 14 For here we do not have an enduring city, but we are looking for the city that is to come.

Santiago de Compostela certainly seems to be an enduring city. People have been going there ever since it began growing around the tomb of St. James in the ninth century. Along with Rome and Jerusalem, two other even more ancient and enduring cities, it was one of the major pilgrimage centers of the Middle Ages. Yet given enough time all of earth’s cities will crumble. We can see it start to happen when earthquakes, floods, fire, terrorism or war bring sudden destruction; we see the great effort it takes to make repairs. We also see changes in cities and their people caused by political, economic and cultural shifts. Every part of life teeters on its edge. But God’s people always have a hope, the promise of the New Jerusalem, the holy and heavenly “city that is to come.” It will last not for centuries or millenia but forever. We will live with our Lord Jesus where “there will be no more death or mourning or crying or pain” (Revelation 21:4). Lord, we thank you for the wonders we see in many beautiful cities of earth. Help us not to put our faith in them or their leaders but to cling to you and trust you to lead us to our eternal home.

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We sent our packs ahead for the second day because we were walking a few more kilometers than our average and I was tired. The cost of the pack transport service is lower here, only 3€ apiece–perhaps more competition? Keep reading

(Portomarin’ to Palas de Rei: 24.8 km, about 7 hours, with 1 hr & 30 min breaks; 35,387 steps total)

Hebrews 13:1-10
v. 7 Remember your leaders, who spoke the word of God to you. Consider the outcome of their way of life and imitate their faith.

We remember our church family at home, especially on Sunday mornings when we are not joining in corporate worship but walking. We remember our faithful pastors Ray, John and Randy who deeply love the Lord and his people. They serve in many ways every day, they witness to the gospel and they speak the word of God to us. We especially remember Pastor Randy who usually preaches in the little chapel service where I play most Sundays. He opens up his life to us and invites us to be real with Jesus and with one another. Thank you, Lord, for your great grace to us in giving us godly pastors who not only preach your word but live it out in our midst.

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We had a tostada at a bar on the plaza in Portomarin before starting our misty walk through the Galician hills. Keep reading

Church in Paradela

(Barbadelo to Portomarin’: 18.5 km, 6 1/2 hours, 1 hr & 30 min breaks; 27,018 steps, plus 2440 later)

Hebrews 12:14-28
22-23a But you have come to Mount Zion, to the city of the living God, the heavenly Jerusalem. You have come to thousands upon thousands of angels in joyful assembly, to the church of the firstborn, whose names are written in heaven….

We’re getting closer. Maurice has studied the map and divided up the remaining distance, and we have evaluated where we might like to stay. We’ve just passed Sarria and pilgrim numbers have noticeably increased. When we get to Santiago there will be hundreds, maybe thousands, of pilgrims crowding into the cathedral for the pilgrim mass. But we won’t just be in the Santiago cathedral. Wherever God’s people gather to worship him in the name of Jesus, they touch the throne of heaven. Our praises rise and we are in “Mount Zion…the city of the living God.” It is not just the pilgrim people worshipping, in Santiago or anywhere else in the world believers gather, but also “thousands upon thousands of angels in joyful assembly” who join their praises with the earthly church and raise their voices in love of the Creator. Hallelujah! Lord, thank you that you made a way for us pilgrims yet on earth to touch heaven.

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Breakfast was expensive and only adequate. We left the room at 8:15, not realizing it was raining. We stood on the porch to put on our rain gear. As soon as we started walking, the rain tapered off and the path went up. We were too warm so we stopped to take off our jackets. Finally we were really on our way, past fields fenced with flat stones on edge, alongside pastures wet and green, through lovely lanes curving through tiny stone hamlets with barns and cows and the typical picturesque granaries elevated on stone pillars to keep the rodents out.

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(Samos to Barbadelo: 18.4 km, 6 hours with 1 hr & 40 min breaks; 25,548 steps, plus 260 later)

Hebrews 12:1-13
v. 3, 7, 11 Consider [Jesus] who endured such opposition from sinful men, so you do not grow weary and lose heart…. Endure hardship as discipline; God is treating you as sons…. No discipline seems pleasant at the time, but painful. Later on, however, it produces a harvest of righteousness and peace for those who have been trained by it.

Growing weary and losing heart–that’s exactly what I’m doing. I go to bed tired and wake up tired and then we walk. What’s the point, I wonder. But consider Jesus, says the text. What I’m going through is nothing compared to what he went through. Jesus was not just physically tired but conspired against, unrighteously judged and dragged to a hideous death. He did it all “for the joy set before him” (v. 2), of pleasing the Father and returning to the glories of heaven with a redeemed people. What I’m doing may be hard, but it’s a discipline, writes the author of Hebrews. God has put me on this path because he loves me and is working his good purposes in my life. If I submit to the experience and keep walking with him, I will grow in righteousness and live in his peace. Dear Jesus, help me to endure this path you have set us on. Keep me from growing weary and losing heart.

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Breakfast at the hotel was just as nice as everything else there, with fresh orange juice and plenty of jam. We left at 9:15, first going along the road then continuing into the woods, through pastures and hamlets, for another beautiful walk in the sun. We stopped in a bar for coke and Santiago cake before returning to what the guidebook called a “delightful forest track;” we know that is Camino-speak for “uphill walk.”

At the top of a hill, with bread and oranges

Green Galician countryside with stone slab wall reinforced with thicket

A granary past its prime

At Sarria we walked seemingly forever through the modern part of town before climbing steps to the medieval section. At a little over 100 kilometers from Santiago, Sarria is a popular starting point for people who only want to walk the minimum distance required to get a compostela. The hordes of pilgrims we expected in town were not there; the churches at the beginning and end of the old town where credencials are stamped were not open. Apparently prime pilgrim season was over. It was damp and cool out so we went into the Meson O Tapas for a real lunch. The Ohio girls were already there.

Tympanum of Christ in Majesty and the Tree of Life, 13th-century Iglesia del Salvador, Sarria

When we left it was hinting of rain. We walked to the edge of town and put on our pack covers. We stopped in the Monasterio de la Magdalena for a sello and put on our rain jackets. As we headed down the hill it drizzled on and off. By the time we got to Barbadelo about four kilometers farther on it was raining steadily.

Maurice was ready to stop and selected the first place we came to, Casa Barbadelo, a sort of modern complex with a swimming pool (which I knew meant expensive). We ended up in a double room (spacious, with four beds) and bargained the price down. I thought the room smelled–sewery, covered over with perfume. Maurice didn’t smell a thing and was happy to be out of the rain. He also says we’re finished with albergue bunks; a month is more than enough for the true Camino experience.

The pilgrim menu was served in a lovely room that looked like a library in a country house. I had caldo gallego again instead of salad, then we had some tasty Galician beef. For dessert I had another specialty: a chunk of mild local cheese with a slab of quince jelly–delicious. After we ate I sat on the sofa near the small modern fireplace to write until all the tables emptied and the clean-up crew kicked me out. But first I went over to the piano. There was some sheet music sitting on it as if people actually played it. But no…. Maybe Camino pianos are supposed to remind us of the discordance of life so we long for heaven. Or maybe there are just no piano tuners in Spain.

Samos

(Triacastela to Samos: 9.8 km, 2 1/2 hours; 14,500 steps, plus 9,370 later)

Hebrews 11:13-16
v. 13 All these people were still living by faith when they died. They did not receive the things promised; they only saw them and welcomed them from a distance, admitting that they were strangers and pilgrims on earth.

Strangers and pilgrims indeed. Every town is new, every day is a challenge, yet in eating establishments and albergues we are generally received graciously wherever we stop. We have imagined the end of our long walk from afar for a long time now, wondering at the glories of Santiago de Compostela. I am tired and would welcome the goal right now. But we will get there in God’s time, just as we live out our earthly life according to his plans. Strengthen us, Lord, for the remainder of the distance. Help us to be faithful pilgrims.

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Breakfast with our expensive room was pitiful: three tiny slices of bread, plain yogurt, slivers of cheese, two transparent slices of jamon and a small glass of orange juice, perked up with coffee con leche and Cola Cao. Maurice spilled the OJ on his iphone. Keep reading

Starting at St. Jean Pied de Port (babes in the woods!)

In Galicia and still walking

Here’s what a typical day on the Camino is like: Keep reading

(O Cebreiro to Triacastela: 20.7 km, 7 1/4 hours with 2 hrs breaks; 30,600 steps, plus 1840 later)

Philippians 4:10-13, 19-20
v. 13 I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me.

I can walk up hills. I can walk without breakfast. I can walk in the rain. I can walk when I hurt. Walking with Jesus, I can do whatever he calls me to do. Thank you, Lord, for your strength in all the steps of life.

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The restaurant where we ate in O Cebreiro Keep reading